Changing Hands, Preserving Traditions

Poppy Tooker and Horst Pfeifer outside of Middendorf's in Manchac, Louisiana. (Joe Shriner)

Louisianans are blessed with restaurants that have been dining destinations for generations. So whenever a culinary institution announces an ownership change, we tend to get nervous. On this week's show, we explore three restaurants that have changed hands, but whose owners have worked hard to preserve their traditions.

We begin with a visit to Middendorf's, the classic seafood house located in Manchac – a tiny village 40 miles north of New Orleans on Lake Maurepas. Famed for its thin-cut fried catfish, Middendorf's has been an institution since 1934. Originally owned by three generations of family, it was taken over by Horst and Karen Pfeifer in 2007 after their French Quarter fine dining restaurant was closed due to Katrina. Horst walks us through Middendorf's history, talks about his tenure as owner, and describes how he weathers storms on the Louisiana marsh.

Then, we hear from Dickie Brennan and his sister Lauren Brennan Brower. In March 2023, they got the keys to Pascal's Manale Restaurant when the Dickie Brennan restaurant group purchased the Uptown landmark established in 1913. Growing up, Dickie and Lauren were regulars at Pascal's Manale. The two discuss their memories of the Brennan family's favorite eatery.

Finally, we sit down with the Casbarian family, the second family to own Arnaud's Restaurant in New Orleans' French Quarter since 1918. We learn how they've kept the traditions established by the first owners – Count Arnaud and his daughter, Germaine Wells – while continually innovating for the future.